Dryers
Dryer thermal fuse keeps blowing: find what is overheating it
A dryer thermal fuse that blows again and again is a symptom. Crawl-space vents in older houses, stuck thermostats, grounded elements and slipping blowers.
Shoreline · Gas and electric dryers
On a Shoreline street a gas dryer and an electric one often run a few doors apart. We repair both, along with the vent problems that wear them out, about 12 to 16 minutes from central Lynnwood.

Puget Sound Energy runs about 136 miles of gas main through Shoreline and reaches most of its neighborhoods, while Seattle City Light supplies power to every address. Around 44 percent of homes heat with gas, and many of them dry laundry with it too, so a typical week brings gas dryers with weak igniters alongside electric dryers with broken elements. From the laundry room the symptoms look alike: the drum turns and the clothes come out damp. The causes and the parts are completely different, which is why the first thing your technician confirms is which fuel your dryer uses and whether it is actually reaching the machine.
We repair gas and electric dryers of every common brand, including stacked laundry centers and compact units in apartments. The diagnosis covers the machine and its air path: the lint screen housing, the duct behind the dryer and the flow at the outside hood. A dryer that overheats because of a crushed duct will blow its next thermal fuse a few weeks after the first, so we fix the cause along with the part. If you ever smell gas near the dryer, don't troubleshoot; leave the house and call PSE or 911 from outside.
What you seeGas dryer tumbles and the igniter glows, but no flame
Likely causeWeak gas valve coils, or an igniter that no longer reaches temperature
What we doTest the igniter and coils, replace the failed part and watch a full ignition
What you seeElectric dryer runs cold from the first minute
Likely causeOpen heating element or a blown thermal fuse
What we doTest both, replace the open part and find out why it overheated
What you seeTwo cycles for one load of towels
Likely causeLint packed in a long duct or a stuck hood flap
What we doMeasure airflow, clean what we can reach and show you where the run is restricted
What you seeThumping or scraping as the drum turns
Likely causeFlat-spotted rollers or worn drum glides
What we doReplace rollers, glides and belt as needed and check the idler
What you seeShuts off halfway, then restarts after a rest
Likely causeHigh-limit or cycling thermostat tripping on trapped heat
What we doTest the thermostats against airflow and replace the one that fails
What you seeScorch marks or a hot smell at the cord or terminal block
Likely causeLoose or burned connection where power enters the dryer
What we doReplace the cord and terminal block; a damaged wall receptacle goes to an electrician
New construction near the light-rail stations has its own dryer habit. The townhomes and apartment buildings rising around Shoreline South/148th and Shoreline North/185th since August 2024 often put the laundry in an upstairs closet, so the exhaust has to cross floor framing or climb toward the roof before it leaves the building. Every turn in that run catches a little lint. The dryer gets slower over months, the high-limit thermostat starts cycling the heat, and eventually a thermal fuse opens. We measure airflow at the machine, clean the run as far as we can reach from inside, and let you know if the roof or wall termination needs attention from whoever maintains the building.
Rental houses near Shoreline Community College put a different kind of load on a dryer. Several roommates sharing one machine means back-to-back cycles, overstuffed drums and lint screens that go a week without emptying, and the parts that wear fastest are the ones that carry weight: rollers, glides, idler pulleys and belts. If you manage one of those rentals, the first squeal or thump is the moment to call, before a seized roller chews through the belt and strains the motor.
Older houses add an electrical question. Some post-war and 1960s Shoreline homes still feed the dryer from an original circuit and receptacle, and a loose connection there can scorch a cord end or drop one side of the heat. During diagnosis we check the voltage at the receptacle and the condition of the cord and terminal block. Anything inside the dryer is ours to replace; the wall receptacle, the breaker and the wiring behind them belong to an electrician, and we will make that clear on the spot. With convergence-zone showers keeping clotheslines idle for most of the year, a dryer that heats properly is not optional here.

Dryer repairs start from $229, the lowest starting point on our price list, and the table alongside shows where vent work, fuses, elements, igniters, rollers and boards fall. A starting figure is not your quote: your technician writes the actual price into an estimate after diagnosing the dryer, and nothing happens until you sign off. Approve the repair and the $95 diagnostic is credited against it.
| Blocked vent cleared to the outside | from $229 |
|---|---|
| Thermal fuse or cycling thermostat | from $229 |
| Heating element (electric) | from $239 |
| Drum rollers, idler pulley, belt | from $239 |
| Igniter and gas valve coils | from $249 |
| Control board | from $259 |
| Diagnostic visit | $95, counted toward the repair |
| Another appliance on the same call | $10 off its diagnostic |
2026 starting prices for Lynnwood and nearby towns. The $95 diagnostic counts toward any repair you approve, and your technician writes the exact figure down before work begins.
Dryers are among the simplest appliances in the house, and that usually tips the answer toward repair. Igniters, coils, elements, fuses, thermostats, rollers and belts can all be replaced in one visit on most models, and a gas dryer in particular tends to outlast several rounds of those parts. We lean toward replacement when the drum is rusted or torn, when the cabinet has been scorched by a lint fire, or when a newer dryer's main control board fails and the board costs a large share of a new machine. In a station-area townhome, a stacked unit also needs a replacement that fits the closet and lines up with the existing vent, which narrows the choices and often favors fixing what is there. Whatever we find, the estimate is in writing, and our recommendation comes with the reasons behind it.
Leave the house right away, without flipping switches or unplugging anything, and call PSE or 911 from outside. Don't try to find the leak yourself. Once the utility has made the area safe, we can come and diagnose the dryer itself, including the gas valve, coils and igniter, and tell you what failed before any repair.
Yes. Your technician measures the airflow and exhaust temperature at the back of the dryer, checks the lint housing and transition duct, and looks at the outside hood while the dryer runs. If the dryer heats properly but the air cannot get out, the vent is the fix. If the air path is clear and the heat is low, the machine needs a part.
We do. Stacked laundry centers and compact dryers are common in Shoreline's apartments, condos and new townhomes. Let us know about parking and building access when you book. If the dryer vents into a shared building duct, we clean and check our side of the connection and tell you if the building's run needs attention.
Often it isn't. A broken belt or a seized idler pulley makes the motor hum without moving the drum, and both are inexpensive parts. Turn the dryer off right away, because a stalled motor overheats quickly. Your technician checks the belt, idler and rollers first and only replaces the motor when it has actually failed.
Empty the lint screen and look into its slot for buildup. Check the breaker: an electric dryer uses a double breaker, and if one half trips the drum turns but there is no heat. Make sure the door latch clicks firmly. Then run the dryer and step outside to see whether the hood flap lifts. Tell us what you found when you call.
Something not working?
Reach us at (425) 287-5458 or through the online booking form for dryer repair anywhere in Shoreline. Approve the work and the $95 diagnostic is applied to it, while seniors 65+, veterans and active-duty military households get up to $18 off the repair.
Dryers
A dryer thermal fuse that blows again and again is a symptom. Crawl-space vents in older houses, stuck thermostats, grounded elements and slipping blowers.
Book a repair
Three quick steps. We call back to confirm a time; requests that come in during the morning can usually be seen the same day.
Rather call? (425) 287-5458 · Mon–Sat 8–7