Ovens & ranges
Oven temperature off? Test it before the holiday baking starts
Pies browning on the bottom or roasts running late? Test oven temperature with a thermometer, use the offset setting, and know when a part is really to blame.
Ranges, ovens & cooktops · Edmonds
Edmonds kitchens range from 1960s layouts with a built-in wall oven to remodels with a dual-fuel range under a big hood. We repair gas and electric ovens, ranges and cooktops across the city, Woodway and Esperance included.

The 1960s hillside houses that make up so much of Edmonds were often built with a separate wall oven and cooktop, a layout many owners kept through later remodels because the cabinetry is sized around it. Those kitchens bring us single and double wall ovens from GE, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Bosch and Thermador, plus the gas or electric cooktop on the counter beside them. In the view homes of the Bowl, Seaview and Woodway, the call is more often a freestanding pro-style or dual-fuel range from Wolf, Viking, Thermador or Monogram.
Gas is common: about half of Edmonds homes and roughly two-thirds of those in Esperance heat with it, so a gas line often already reaches the kitchen. Electric cooking is just as common in the condos and apartments. Either way, your technician tests the igniter, element, sensor or control in turn, explains which one failed, and writes the price before replacing it. We do not repair microwaves, including the over-the-range units above many Edmonds ranges, or countertop appliances.
What you seeGas oven takes minutes to light, or never does
Likely causeIgniter still glows but has weakened below what the valve needs
What we doMeasure igniter current, replace the igniter, test bake and broil
What you seeElectric oven heats only from the top
Likely causeBake element burned out, often with a visible blister
What we doReplace the element and check its terminals and wiring
What you seeBaking runs 25 degrees or more off the setting
Likely causeTemperature sensor drifting, or a control fault
What we doTest sensor resistance, replace the sensor or board as needed
What you seeBurner clicks constantly or will not stop sparking
Likely causeMoisture in a spark switch or a failing spark module
What we doDry and test the switches, replace the module if it fails
What you seeDoor stays locked after a self-clean cycle
Likely causeLock motor or switch failed, or a thermal fuse opened
What we doTest and replace the lock assembly or fuse, reset the control
What you seeGlass cooktop element stuck on high, or dead
Likely causeFailed infinite switch or radiant element
What we doTest both and replace the one that failed
Wall ovens in the older houses are usually electric, on a dedicated 240-volt circuit run when the house was built. Replacement ovens and new control boards draw on that same circuit, and in a sixty-year-old kitchen we sometimes find a scorched terminal, a loose splice in the junction box or a breaker that no longer holds. We test all of that at the start of the diagnostic. Anything inside the oven is ours to repair; a problem in the junction box or the panel needs an electrician, and we will tell you so before you spend anything on the oven. Separate cooktops from that era are often wired the same way, and a dead cooktop beside a working oven usually comes down to a switch, an element or its own circuit. If the door glass is cracked or the door will not close fully, stop using the oven until it is repaired; heat escaping at the top can cook the controls above it.
Gas cooking dominates in the enclaves. Esperance, with a third of its houses from the 1950s and about 67 percent gas heat, and Woodway, where gas heat runs about 83 percent, both have plenty of gas ranges and cooktops. The most frequent failure there is a hot-surface oven igniter that still glows but no longer draws enough current to open the gas valve, so the oven lights slowly or not at all. It is a quick repair with the part on hand, and we confirm bake and broil both light cleanly before we leave. Some of those 1950s kitchens still have a narrow opening with tight side clearances, and whenever we pull a range forward we check that the anti-tip bracket is in place, since many older installations never got one.
The pro-style ranges in remodeled Bowl and Seaview kitchens are durable but heavy and model-specific. Spark modules, burner switches and oven igniters fail on them like on any range, and we carry the common ones. Parts for the less common models are ordered after the diagnosis, and your estimate says so before you approve anything. Induction cooktops have turned up in recent remodels as well, and we repair those too, from the power board to the touch controls.
Range and oven repairs start at $255 and run higher for control boards and some pro-style components. Starting prices describe the category; they are not a quote for your oven. Your technician writes the real number after the $95 diagnostic, and that diagnostic is credited to the job as soon as you approve it. Seniors 65+, veterans and active-duty military households can take up to $18 off the approved repair; tick the box when you book.
| Surface element, burner or knob switch | from $255 |
|---|---|
| Oven temperature sensor | from $255 |
| Bake or broil element | from $259 |
| Oven igniter (gas) | from $265 |
| Oven control board | from $279 |
| Diagnostic visit | $95, counted toward the repair |
| Another appliance on the same call | $10 off its diagnostic |
2026 starting prices for Lynnwood and nearby towns. The $95 diagnostic counts toward any repair you approve, and your technician writes the exact figure down before work begins.
Ranges and wall ovens are among the easiest appliances to justify repairing. Igniters, elements, sensors and switches are moderate jobs, and the steel box around them rarely wears out. Wall ovens carry an extra reason to repair: the cutout in a 1960s Edmonds kitchen may not match current oven sizes, and replacing the oven can mean rebuilding cabinetry. A control board on an oven past twenty years old deserves a harder look, since boards for discontinued models get scarce. Pro-style ranges are almost always worth fixing given what they cost new. A gas cooktop with corroded burner bases, or a cracked glass-ceramic top, can approach the price of a replacement, and your technician will put the numbers side by side on the estimate so you can choose. Double wall ovens deserve the same thinking: one failed cavity rarely means the whole unit is finished.
No. Microwaves, including the over-the-range units mounted above many Edmonds ranges, are outside what we repair, and so are countertop appliances. We say that on the phone rather than at your door. If the range underneath has a problem, though, that is ours, and we can look at it on the same visit.
With the oven circuit. A dual-fuel range uses gas burners on top and electric elements below, fed by a 240-volt receptacle. If the burners work and the oven does not, we check that receptacle and breaker first, then the bake element, the sensor and the relays on the control. A cold oven with a dark display usually points to supply or board; a lit display points to elements or relays.
We would not, especially on an older oven. Self-clean pushes the cavity far past cooking temperatures for hours, and that heat is when weak door locks, thermal fuses and control boards tend to fail. Clean spills by hand, or use a steam-clean setting if your oven has one, and save the full cycle for a quiet week when a repair would not matter as much.
Often, but not always. Elements, igniters and some switches for older GE, Frigidaire and Thermador wall ovens are still made or have compatible substitutes. Clocks, timers and original controls are harder. Read us the model and serial from the plate inside the door or under the control panel, on the phone or typed into the booking form, and we will tell you what is still available before the visit.
Do not light anything or touch switches. Leave the house with everyone inside, and once you are outdoors call PSE or 911. After the gas utility has made it safe, we can diagnose the range itself: a loose fitting at a burner, a worn valve or a damaged connector behind the unit. A faint whiff for a second as a burner lights is normal; a steady smell is not.
Something not working?
Ring (425) 287-5458 or use the booking form, and mention whether your range or oven is gas or electric. We apply the $95 diagnostic to the repair once you say yes, and seniors 65+, veterans and military households can take up to $18 off that repair.
Ovens & ranges
Pies browning on the bottom or roasts running late? Test oven temperature with a thermometer, use the offset setting, and know when a part is really to blame.
Book a repair
Three quick steps. We call back to confirm a time; requests that come in during the morning can usually be seen the same day.
Rather call? (425) 287-5458 · Mon–Sat 8–7