Refrigerators
Frost building up in the freezer: read the pattern, then check the seal
Frost on the packages by the door, ice in one corner, a garage freezer that frosts over in weeks: how to read the pattern and test the gasket before you call.
Fridges & freezers · Bothell
Bothell refrigerators live through outages on two utility systems, frequent rental turnovers and tight manufactured-home kitchens. We test the power supply first, then the board, fans and defrost parts, and repair what we can on the first visit.

The November 2024 bomb cyclone reached Bothell from both directions. South of the county line, PSE's outage count during the storm passed 400,000 customers; north of it, the PUD's passed 70,000. Some refrigerators in town trace their trouble to that night: a control board that came back with a garbled display, an air damper that has stuck since, or a defrost cycle that never settled into its rhythm again. Power returning in uneven bursts is hard on electronics, and a modern refrigerator carries more of them than most owners realize, from the main board to the sensors, dampers and the fan motors with their own driver chips.
Housing adds the rest of the local pattern. Shared rentals near the UW Bothell and Cascadia College campus put one refrigerator under the load of four households' worth of groceries, with doors opened constantly and shelves packed against the air vents. Manufactured homes, a sizable minority of Bothell housing, often hold compact or apartment-size models on floors that move a little. Bothell East and North Creek houses built after 2000 have French-door and side-by-side units now reaching the age when fans and boards give out. We repair Whirlpool, GE, LG, Frigidaire, KitchenAid, Maytag and Bosch refrigerators across all three.
What you seeDisplay scrambled or dark since a power cut
Likely causeSurge damage to the main board or its onboard fuse
What we doTest the outlet and breaker, then the board's supply, and replace a damaged board
What you seeFreezer fine, fresh-food side creeping warm
Likely causeAir damper stuck shut or the evaporator fan stopped
What we doTest damper and fan, clear the frost and replace whichever failed
What you seeFrost thick on the freezer's back panel
Likely causeDefrost heater, sensor or control no longer cycling
What we doMeasure each defrost part and replace the one that is open or stuck
What you seeDoors drift open or gaskets leave gaps
Likely causeCabinet out of level on a flexing floor, or a worn gasket
What we doLevel the cabinet, adjust the doors and fit a new gasket if needed
What you seeRuns constantly while the side panels feel warm
Likely causeDust-choked condenser coil or a slow condenser fan
What we doClean the coil, then test the fan motor and replace it if weak
What you seeClicks on and off without the compressor starting
Likely causeStart relay or overload failing, occasionally the compressor itself
What we doReplace relay and overload; a failed compressor gets reported before anything else
After an outage, the first thing your technician checks is whether power is actually reaching the refrigerator. Garage refrigerators, and some kitchen ones, often sit on a GFCI-protected circuit, and a GFCI receptacle can trip on the surge when power returns, cutting the unit off while the breaker panel looks normal. We test the receptacle, the breaker and the voltage at the plug. If the house wiring is at fault, we tell you that an electrician is needed; if the trouble is a board, fuse, relay or sensor inside the refrigerator, we replace it, often from stock in the vehicle. Some owners add a plug-in surge protector made for appliances after a storm like that one; whole-house protection at the panel is a question for an electrician.
Manufactured homes bring a physical problem rather than an electrical one. Their floors are lighter than a site-built house's and can settle unevenly over the years, so a refrigerator that once stood level starts leaning forward or sideways. Doors stop swinging shut on their own, gaskets fold, warm humid air creeps in, and the unit runs longer while frost builds behind the freezer panel. Re-leveling the cabinet and adjusting the door hinges fixes a surprising share of these calls. Kitchens in these homes are also tight, so we check that the condenser has room to vent at the back or base.
Rentals near campus and the apartment blocks downtown wear refrigerators in their own way. Shelves loaded to the ceiling block the vents that carry cold air from the freezer, so the fresh-food side warms even though nothing has failed. Doors left ajar after a late night bury the evaporator in frost. And a refrigerator that sat unplugged with its doors closed between leases often greets the next tenant with a sour smell from its drain pan. We sort out which of these is a repair and which is a habit, and say so plainly.

Refrigerator repair in Bothell begins at $259 for the category; the table shows where relays, valves, fans, defrost parts and boards each start. Those numbers mark the bottom of each range and are not a quote for your unit. Your technician writes the precise price down once the $95 diagnostic is complete, and work waits for approval from you or your landlord. The diagnostic is credited toward any repair you go ahead with. If the cause turns out to be a tripped receptacle or an unlevel cabinet, that is what we report.
| Start relay and overload on the compressor | from $259 |
|---|---|
| Inlet valve for the dispenser and ice | from $265 |
| Condenser fan motor | from $269 |
| Evaporator fan behind the freezer wall | from $269 |
| Defrost heater, sensor or timer | from $275 |
| Main control board | from $285 |
| Diagnostic visit | $95, counted toward the repair |
| Another appliance on the same call | $10 off its diagnostic |
2026 starting prices for Lynnwood and nearby towns. The $95 diagnostic counts toward any repair you approve, and your technician writes the exact figure down before work begins.
Storm damage is usually repairable. A board, fuse, relay or damper that failed when the power came back is a single part, and on a refrigerator that still holds temperature otherwise, replacing it makes sense. The calculation changes when the replacement board is discontinued for an older model, or when testing traces the fault to the compressor or refrigerant circuit; compressor and refrigerant work is outside what we take on, and on household units it rarely pays anyway. Manufactured homes tilt toward repair, because a new refrigerator has to fit the alcove, the doorways and sometimes a narrower hallway, and compact sizes limit the choices. In rentals the owner decides, and our written estimate gives them the facts: what failed, what it costs to fix, and whether the rest of the unit looks sound enough to justify it.
Look for a tripped GFCI receptacle on the kitchen counter or in the garage and press its reset button. Switch the refrigerator's breaker off for a minute and back on, which restarts most electronic controls. Make sure both doors close firmly. If the display stays dark, scrambled or the temperature keeps climbing after a few hours, book a visit and mention the outage.
No, that sealed-system work is not something we take on. When the diagnostic shows a failed compressor or a refrigerant leak, your technician stops there, explains the finding in writing and helps you think through replacement. The diagnostic is the only charge in that case. Everything outside the sealed system, such as fans, defrost parts, relays, dampers, valves and boards, we repair.
Yes. Compact and apartment-size refrigerators use the same kinds of fans, thermostats, defrost parts and relays as full-size units, though some parts are specific to the model. The model number is on a sticker inside the fresh-food compartment, often on a side wall; read it to us when you call or type it into the form so we can check availability. We also level the cabinet and check its ventilation clearance while we are there.
Often because it sat unplugged with the doors shut between tenants, letting mold grow in the drain pan underneath and in the defrost drain. Wiping the shelves will not reach those places. We clear and flush the drain, clean the pan and check that the defrost system is working, so condensate drains and evaporates as designed rather than pooling.
Monday through Saturday we can often come the same day, and a morning call widens the choice of times. Canyon Park and North Creek are roughly a dozen minutes from central Lynnwood off-peak; Main Street and the King County side can take closer to 20, depending on I-405. Keep the refrigerator doors closed while you wait to hold the cold in.
Something not working?
Phone (425) 287-5458 or fill in the online booking form, and tell us whether you are on the King or Snohomish side. If you approve the repair, your $95 diagnostic is credited to it, and seniors 65+, veterans and active-duty military households can claim up to $18 off by ticking the box in the form.
Refrigerators
Frost on the packages by the door, ice in one corner, a garage freezer that frosts over in weeks: how to read the pattern and test the gasket before you call.
Book a repair
Three quick steps. We call back to confirm a time; requests that come in during the morning can usually be seen the same day.
Rather call? (425) 287-5458 · Mon–Sat 8–7